mature faces, with the attendant wrinkles and lines, or, who have a beard problem, it is suggested that you purchase Max Factor's ERASE (which comes in a tube) and use it to lightly fill the lines, wrinkles and the areas where your beard shows through the foundation - with a bluish color. This method is one that many crossdressers are now using to hide imperfections of beards which show, or for wrinkles which are detracting from the general appearance of the face.

The kind of foundation that will help you enhance your looks without drawing attention to its use is a thin foundation, either in liquid or gel form. Whether you want all-over cover- age, an evening of tone or a sheer look, the gel will give it to you. I think that mature cross- dressers should take advantage of the fresh, outdoorsey look the gel gives its wearer.

My favorite application tool is the sponge; I have used it on some of the most famous faces in the world. Small, round cosmetic sponges are expensive but their advantages are priceless, With just a little practice, you'll find that you are more adept at putting on your makeup than you ever thought possible. Unlike even the most agile fingertips, the sponge won't leave any traces of having been on your face. It can blend in foundation (and rouge, as you will see) faster than any other tool and remember that per- fect blending is the secret to perfect, velvety-smooth makeup.

The sponge applies and re- moves, depending on your needs. You won't be able to put on too much, as fingertips are so liable to do. The sponge releases foundation to your face auto- matically; there's no rubbing to hurt your skin.

Simply rinse it out after you've used it and it will be

ready for its next job again and again. You will always have a professional applicator at hand. for very little cost.

Now that you have one firmly in your hand, just rinse it under cold water and wring it out until it is barely moist, for the smoothest application. Apply foundation directly to the sponge or dot it on your face. Then pat the foundation on rather than using the sponge in long strokes. Pat lightly, cover- ing cheeks, forehead, nose and chin. Blend all areas carefully to eliminate any fine lines of distinction. If you find that the ERASE, underneath the founda- tion, causes the foundation to be lighter than you want, merely use a bit less of the ERASE or use a bit more foundation.

When you're only using foundation on certain areas, make sure that the outer edges blend into your skin evenly. Re- member that patting works very well for this spot-blending.

Always start at the center of your face and work upward when you want total coverage. Work towards the temples, the hairline. Work up the jawline from your chin. Work UP rather than down as that tends to cause sagging. I recommend that you use a two-sided mirror, one side which magnifies. The magnifying side should be used to examine your blending.

Now is the time in the routine when so many women and crossdressers, think about using face powder. Some women use it alone, without foundation, but using a mositurizer before- hand is a must! Moisturizer ap- plication should be very correct, as any excess will attract excess powder and cause it to cake. Powder used on very good skin should be the "no-color" kind that gives a matte finish without changing the natural tone of the skin. Then go to rouge. 28

But if you are using founda- tion, as all crossdressers should, use your powder AFTER you put on your rouge, not before. This is why a full discussion of powder ends up with a latter discussion on rouge.

Making foundation last ap- pears to be its biggest problem. Often foundation applied at the start of the day seems to disap- pear almost completely within a matter of hours, actually re- appearing on hands and clothing

anywhere but where it be- longs. One reason for this is that the oily skin tends to soak up makeup. Occasionally it disap- pears because of a habit of con- stantly touching the face.

One trick I use to solve this problem is a simple one. When all of your makeup is on, get an ice cube from the freezer and pat your face very gently with it. Pat, pat, pat everywhere. This will set your makeup for hours without making it look artificial. There is one situation, however, where the ice cube will not work and that is if you've used powder. The wetness of the ice cube will cause it to cake. The variation of this procedure involves using your fingertips. Run your hands under very cold water, dry them, and while they are still icy cold, pat, pat, pat.

You can repeat this later in the day if you feel your makeup is fading; you don't need the ice cube when you have your fingertips always ready. Without applying makeup all over again, your makeup will come alive.

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Just as cold fingers work for your foundation, you should let your foundation work for you. whether it's for all-over cover or simply to even out a tan (for instance, to blend in the areas left by your great big sunglasses). Once its functionis understood, foundation becomes one of the most helpful tools in tools in your beauty kit,